Manufacture of welt shoes



Sept. 30, 1947. H. GOTTLIEB MANUFACTURE OF WELT SHOES Filed April 21, 1944 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR HENRY GOTTLIEB ATTORNEY FIG-3' Sept. 30, 1947. H. GOTT| l EB 2,428,153

MANUFACTURE OF WELT SHOES Filed A ril 21, 1944 4 Sheets- Sheet 2 I NVENTOR HENRY GOTTU EB ATTORNEY Spt. 30, 1947. H. GOTTLIEB 2,428,153

MANUFACTURE OF WELT SHOES Filed April 21, 1944 4 sheets-sheet s ATTORN EYS P 30, 7- H. GOTTLIEB MANUFACTURE OF WELT SHOES Filed April 21', 1944 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 FIGJO FIG.

FIGJB \NvEm'oR HENRY 60 72 y flmfiw ATTORNE Patented Sept. 30, 1947 UNITED STATES PATENT OFF ICE.

MANUFAGTUZZZZZELT I lilem-y Gott-lieb, Montreal, Quebec, Canada pplication April 21., 1944,. Serial No. 533-2337 In Canada December- 31, 1.9.43

1 Claim. 1

This. invention relate to the manufacture of shoes and the. object is to provide an im oved process for the manufacture of welt shoes of the hoxrtoe type.

According to this invention the shoe upper isv formed, in the usual manner and the toe portion is then subjected to a pressure molding operation to form a substantially rigid box-toe. A sock lining and a welt are then stitched to the toe and shank portions. of the upper and the resulting assembly is then fitted on a last so that the. sock lining covers the bottom or sole portion of the last. A filler sole and an outsole are then initially secured in place by gluing the forepart and shank of the filler sole to the sock lining and then luing the forepart and shank of the out-sole to the, corresponding portions of the filler sole and to the Welt the heel portions of. the filler sole and outsole being tacked or otherwise secured; to the. heel portion of the upper, following which a heel is: then nailed to the heel portion of the; out-- solo in the usual manner. The partially finished shoe is then removed from the last and subieeted to the usual finishing operations in the course of which the outsole is sewed to the welt.

The-moulding of the toe part of he upper, follQWed by: the sewing of the sock lining and the welt to the forepart and shank portion of the upper, constitute the essential novel steps of the process described herein. These preliminaryop erations enable the cushion. sole and the outsole to be lasted to the forepart of the upper without the use of tacks and also ensures the formation of a box-toe having perfectly smooth inner and outer surfaces which do not wrinkle in service.

In the preferred practice of this invention a toe stiffener, consisting of a piece of fabric impregnated with asphalt or other suitable adhesive stiifening substance, is inserted between the toe portion of the upper and the toe lining prior to the aforesaid toe molding operation. In this case the toe portion of the upper is heated and softened by a steaming or other heating operation before being subjected to pressure between the toe shaping molds by means of which the stiffened toe portion of the upper is molded to provide a substantially rigid box-toe. During the molding operation the softened asphalt in the toe stiffener serves to adhesively unite the upper, the toe stifiener and the toe lining in such manner as to ensure the provision of a toe cap having perfectly smooth molded inner and outer surfaces which will not wrinkle in service.

Proceeding now to a more detailed description f. this invention reference will be had to the ac.- companying drawings, wherein- Fia. 1 s a side view of an upper equipped with toe and counter stiffeners secured place be. tween the upper and the upper lining.

i 2 is a, longitudinal sectional view of the upper assembly shownin Fig. 1.

F 3 is a view showing the manner in. which the stiffened toe, portion of the upper is molded between male and iemale mold members to. pro! vide. a substantially rigid; box-toe in which. the. upper and the. toe lining are. fused to, the toe stiffener.

Fig. l is a view showing the. stifienedltoe po tion of he. upper after it has, been transformed into .the) substantially rigid, bQXrtQE by the. m ld ng.

per tion illustrated in. Fig. 3...

F g. 5. is a. perspective. view showing the manner in w ich. the sock lining and the welt are. secured to theupper following the molding operation.

Fig. 6 is a view similar to.-

5 showing the upper after it has been. fitted on a. last. followin the; attachment of the. sock lining and welt,

Fig. 7 is. a. View shOWing the. filler sole after it. hasbeenlastedin place.

Fig. 3, is; a vi w showing the outer sole. lasted. place and the heel applied.

F a. 9 is aperspective view of the finished sh showing. the outsole sewed. to the welt.

Fig. 10. is a. sectional view taken substantially along, theline. |.0.-I.0, at Fig. 5,.

F 1.1. is a transverse sectional view taken. substantially along the line Il|l of Fig. 6.,

Fig. 12 is a transverse sectional view taken substantially along the line l2l2 of Fig. 7. v

Referring to Figs. 1 and 2, 5 designates a shoe upper which is formed in the conventional manner, A toe stifiener 6 is secured in place between the toe portion of the upper and the forepart lining I. A counter stiffener 8 is also secured in place between the heel portion of the upper and the lining 9.

The toe stiffener 6 is preferably composed of a piece of fabric impregnated with asphalt or with some other suitable adhesive stifiening compound.

According to my invention the upper assembly shown in Figs. 1 and 2 is first placed in a steam box (not shown) or is otherwise heated and softened to prepare it for the toe molding operation. The toe portion of the upper is then subjected to shaping pressure between the upper and lower toe shaping mold members II and 12 shown in Fig, 3, the upper female mold member H being stationary and the lower mold member 12 being raised and lowered by mechanism including an operating handle IS,

The toe molding operation transforms the relatively limp toe portion of the upper into a substantially rigid box-toe of substantially the shape shown in Fig. 4. During the molding operation the toe portion of the upper and the opposing portion of the toe lining are pressed smoothly against the toe stiffener 6 and fused thereto by the adhesive action of the softened asphalt with which the toe stiffener is impregnated. Following the molding operation a sock lining i4 and a welt l5 are then stitched to the toe and shank portions of the upper as shown in Figs. 5 and so that the welt lies substantially parallel with the outer surface of the upper. In order to prevent cracking of the upper during the subsequent lasting operations, it is desired that the upper be again heated and softened by steaming or otherwise before being fitted on the last. The resulting assembl is then placed on a last l6 as shown in Fig. 6. The sewn edges of the upper, sock lining and welt are then worked inwardly over the bottom of the last in the usual manner (Figs. 6 and 11) to thereby dispose the welt in a position extending outwardly from the upper substantially at right angles thereto, the welt being retained in the latter position by reason of its inherent stiffness and shape. A filler sole I1 is then glued to the sock lining as shown in Figs. 7 and 12, the heel portion of the upper being lasted over the heel portion of said filler sole and tacked thereto. An outsole I8 is then secured in place as shown in Fig. 8, the forepart of the outsole being glued to the forepart of the filler sole and to the welt, the heel portion of said outsole and a heel l9 bein tacked in place in the usual manner. The partially completed shoe is then removed from the last and subjected to the usual finishing operation to produce the finished shoe (Fig. 9) in which the outsole i8 is sewn to the welt as indicated at 20.

In making certain types of shoes the toe stiffener 6 may be dispensed with. In this case the toe portion of the upper will be softened by moistening same prior to the toe molding operation illustrated in Fig. 3, as in the case when a toe stiffener is used,

Having thus described what I now conceive to be the preferred embodiment of this invention it will be understood that various modifications may be resorted to within the scope and spirit of the invention as defined by the appended claim.

I claim:

The method of making box-toe welt shoes which comprises forming an upper, inserting a toe stiffener at the front thereof, subjecting the toe part of the upper to a molding pressure in a toe-shaping mold to form a substantially rigid box-toe, without flanging the lower edge of the upper, removing the upper from the mold and attaching a sock lining and a welt to the upper by a single sewing operation in which the toe and shank portions of the sock lining are edgesewn to the inner side of the corresponding portions of the upper while the welt is edge-sewn to the outer side of the upper so that it lies parallel therewith, fitting the resulting assembly on a last so that the sock lining covers the bottom or sole portion of the last, turning the sewn edges of the upper, sock lining and welt inwardly over the last to dispose the welt in a, position projecting laterally from the upper substantially at right angles thereto, gluing the fore part and shank of a filler sole to the sock lining, tacking the heel portion of the upper in place over the heel portion of the filler sole, gluing the fore part of an outsole to the forepart of the filler sole andto said welt, then tacking in place the heel portion of the outsole and a suitable heel and then removing the partially completed shoe from the last and sewing the outsole to the welt.

HENRY GOTTLIEB.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 1,376,387 Brock Apr. 26, 1921 1,630,788 Daly May 31, 1927 1,784,455 Lander Dec. 9, 1930 1,904,085 Rizzo Apr, 18, 1933 2,289,335 Ayers July 14, 1942 2,125,798 McMurray Aug. 2, 1938 1,733,105 Tracy Oct. 22, 1929 1,138,961 Langenohl May 11, 1915 1,117,629 Bates Nov. 17, 1914 1,160,164 Hadaway Nov. 16, 1915 1,195,966 Brock Aug. 29, 1916 1,775,290 Morrison Sept. 9, 1930 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 405,625 Great Britain Feb. 2, 1934 118,359 Australia Apr. 5, 1944 

